3 choses à savoir sur les « laits » végétaux

On trouve de plus en plus de variétés de boissons à base végétale et présentées comme des alternatives au lait de vache.
Elles n’auront certes bientôt plus le droit de s’appeler « lait » mais pour beaucoup de gens, ces « laits » végétaux représentent des alternatives à ce liquide de croissance produit par la vache, plus connu sous le nom de lait, et permettant au veau de passer de 50kg à la naissance à 300kg à 8 mois.

#1 Nous n’avons pas besoin de lait pour être en bonne santé

C’est peut-être une évidence, mais il n’est peut-être pas mauvais de le rappeler, en particulier en France, la patrie du laitage et de l’élevage bovin.

Quelques petits éléments factuels, parmi d’autres, pour l’illustrer :

  • Alors que notre espèce, l’homo sapiens, est âgée d’au moins 200.000 ans, notre consommation de lait remonte, elle, à environ 12.000 ans, c’est-à-dire les débuts de l’élevage. Si nous avions tant besoin du lait de vache, comment tous nos ancêtres avant l’apparition de l’élevage ont-ils pu survivre? #lanatureestmalfaite.
  • Un grande partie de la population mondiale (1) ne consomme pas de lait de vache et (2) est intolérante au lactose. Etre intolérant à une substance soi-disant si essentielle pour nous, c’est vraiment ballot! #lanatureestmalfaite bis
  • En fait, nous avons vraiment besoin de lait, mais de lait maternel, entre 0 et 2 ans, voire plus. Voilà le lait adapté à notre espèce, plutôt que d’aller boire le lait d’une autre espèce. Le lait maternel n’est pas seulement le liquide de croissance par excellence pour les humains, mais il contient aussi des anticorps (défense immunitaire) provenant de la mère et qui aident à protéger le bébé durant les premiers mois de sa croissance.
  • Pour ce qui est du calcium, il s’agit là du sempiternel argument avancé par les lobbies d’éleveurs, relayés par les autorités sanitaires françaises. Non seulement ces autorités ont élevé le lait et ses dérivés au statut de source optimale de calcium, mais elles ont en même temps éclipsé toutes les sources végétales de calcium et créé le mythe de la carence en calcium. Or, pour ne prendre qu’un exemple, le pourcentage de femmes âgées de plus de 65 ans et souffrant d’ostéoporose est nettement plus bas au Japon, pays où les habitants consomment peu de produits laitiers, qu’en France, patrie du camembert. Et on peut même se demander si l’augmentation des cas d’ostéoporose chez les japonais ne serait pas liée à la croissance concomitante de la consommation de laitages. En tout cas, les chercheurs japonais qui se sont penchés sur la question recommandent aux japonais d’augmenter leur apport en calcium d’origine végétale.

#2 Tous les « laits » végétaux ne se ressemblent pas

Sous l’appelation « lait » ou boisson végétale, on trouve des boissons à base de

  • soja
  • amande
  • noisette
  • épeautre
  • riz
  • avoine
  • quinoa
  • chanvre

… en j’en oublie peut-être. Or ces différents ingrédients appartiennent à des catégories nutritionnelles totalement différentes. Tandis que le soja est une légumineuse au même titre que les lentilles et les pois chiches, l’épeautre, l’avoine, le riz et le quinoa sont eux des céréales, par nature riches en glucide (sucre). Quant aux amandes, il s’agit là d’un fruit à coque.

Ces différences se traduisent par une composition radicalement différente en fonction de l’ingrédient de base. S’il s’agit de trouver une boisson aux propriétés nutritionnelles proches de celles du lait de vache (gardant à l’esprit mon point #1), alors la seule boisson envisageable est le lait de soja (et zut pour les guillemets). Il s’agit d’une boisson riche en protéines et souvent enrichie en calcium.

Voici un petit tableau récapitulant la teneur en macro-nutriments des différentes boissons, classées par teneur décroissante en protéine.

(par 100ml) kCal Protéines (g) Sucre (g) Lipides (g)
Lait de soja non sucré (Bjorg) 41 3.8 0.6 2.5
Lait de soja sucré (Bjorg) 52 3.8 3.5 2.5
Lait de vache demi écrémé 42 3.2 4.8 1.2
Lait d’avoine non sucré (Bjorg) 51 1.1 4 1.4
Lait d’épeautre non sucré (Bjorg) 55 0.8 7.5 1.2
Lait d’amande non sucré (Bjorg) 28 0.7 1.9 1.9
Lait d’amande calcium (Bjorg) 45 0.6 3.8 2.1

Sources: site web de Bjorg; wikipedia pour le lait de vache

On voit clairement que pour ce qui est des boissons végétales autres que le lait de soja, il s’agit avant tout de boissons riches en glucides, avec un indice glycémique (IG) assez élevé.

Que retenir?

Les « laits » végétaux, à l’exception de celui à base de soja, sont des boissons riches en glucides et plutôt pauvres en protéines, acides gras et micro-nutriments. Cela ne veut pas dire qu’ils faille les éviter. Au contraire, à choisir entre un lait de vache et un lait végétal, le lait végétal sera toujours préférable (dans le cadre d’une alimentation variée et équilibrée, bien sûr) : il ne contient ni lactose, ni cholestérol, ni surcharge de calcium, ni antibiotiques, ni souffrance animale.

Si votre souci est la quantité de protéines, alors le lait de soja sera la boisson idéale pour vous. Soit en version sucrée pour l’énergie en plus qu’il apporte et le goût plus doux, soit en version non sucrée.

Si votre priorité est le contrôle de votre poids, dans ce cas les laits, quels qu’ils soient, sont à consommer avec modération. Le sucre qu’ils contiennent doit être traité au même titre que celui contenu dans un jus de fruit.

#3 Le lait de soja, boisson idéale du sportif?

Au rayon suppléments alimentaires pour sportifs dans de nombreux magasins bio, ou dans les magasins spécialisés en alimentation du bodybuilder, on trouve aujourd’hui à côté des poudres à base de lactosérum (whey en anglais) bon nombre de poudres d’origine végétale, et surtout à base de soja.

Et de fait, parmi toutes les protéines végétales, le soja obtient le score de « digestibilité » le plus élevé parmi les végétaux, le plaçant au même niveau que la viande de boeuf par exemple.  Ce score est basé sur la méthodologie définie par la FAO (Organisation des Nations Unies pour l’alimentation et l’agriculture) en 2013 et utilisé notamment dans une étude récente publiée dans le vénérable British Journal of Nutrition en avril 2017. Les trois chercheurs ont comparé la teneur en protéines et son absorption par des cochons, de quatre formes de lait de vache et de quatre sources de protéines végétales.

Les résultats de l’étude montrent notamment que pour ce qui est des acides aminés essentiels, et en particulier des fameux BCAA auxquels les sportifs prêtent de plus en plus attention du fait de leur caractère précurseur de la synthèse protéique, l’isolat de protéine de soja n’a pas grand chose à envier au lait : pour la leucine, 1.65% dans la poudre de lait écrémé contre 1.42% dans l’isolat de protéine de soja; pour l’isoleucine, les chiffres sont respectivement de 0.88% pour le lait et 0.86% pour le soja; enfin pour la valine, 1.08% dans le lait et 0.89% dans le soja. Nous sommes donc à des niveaux assez proches entre le lait et le soja, avec un léger avantage pour le soja, mais qui ne saurait en aucun justifier tous les inconvénients nutritionnels environnementaux et sanitaires qui lui sont associés. Et les auteurs de conclure:

« En suivant les recommendations de la FAO concernant les apports en acides aminés essentiels pour les enfants, adolescents et adultes, (…) l’isolat de protéine de soja et la farine de soja peuvent être qualifiées de « bonnes » sources de protéine, obtenant un score DIAAS compris entre 75 et 100. »

Quant à la boisson tirée du soja me direz-vous, et bien elle profite également de ces qualités nutritionnelles, tout en ajoutant, de part sa forme liquide, une facilité d’absorption par le système digestif qui en font une alternative intéressante comme boisson de récupération.

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